What up?

So what up?

Not a lot of major news but a few things have happened of late. Not long after my last post I had a sick day down at the Paradiso with the crew. Managed to do Ready, Steady, Go (26) in about 8 shots. One of the best routes I've ever done! Big throw to a pinch then another throw to a good hold..psyched to send on the last shot of the day. Cheers to Garry for the route, and Jed for the pics:

Uni is a bit more intense that I first hoped so I've been spending quite a lot of time studying. Did some mountain stuff in the SW with Gazza which was a pretty special experience. Other than that I've been having a mini-epic on Back Yard Surgery (29) at the Star Factory. Spent about 5 days so far, and fell off the 2nd last move yesterday, so hopefully it will be done soon. Mark Polinski made the 2nd ascent of Jake Bresnehan's The Wizard of OZ (32) at the Factory on Sat, nice one Mark!

Been training quite a lot in preparation for the Gramps with Alex. Pretty psyched! We leave on Thursday for about a week, so keen as mustard for that. Spent 2 seconds making a picture that gets me psyched....Dave Graham on Passion (8c+)...

Take it easy

Another Phillips Classic

A little news and some photos.

Slap Dancer (27) on Albert's Tomb, Mt. Wellington. Did this rad route a few months back - it's a good one! Thanks to Jed (Parkes) for the shots.

STAR FACTORY

Last weekend Alex and myself cruised up the coast in his brand-spanking new Subaru Outback which was pretty sick. Saturday saw us up at the Factory with Simon. I put the draws on Decafe (27) and managed to get it next shot which was rad. Alex and Simon both had burns on Street Fighter (28).

On Sunday we walked back up late, because it was absolutely baking, 25 degrees plus! There were quite a few people up there, which was a change. Power of the Percolator (28) was the goal for the day. Having a burn I fell at the crux. I went to the top putting draws and got it figured. Letting the rock cool down I had another shot but bungled it again. The second attempt:

Alex had another go on Street Fighter and got really high, to the second crux a few moves from the top. Here he is down low:

Heading home I knew I would be back to finish business with Percolator soon. Yesterday I went up for the day with Merry, Ed and Ben. Putting the draws on I refreshed my memory and soon was scoffing Red Bull for a redpoint. Just staying on at the crux I made it to the rest, then got some back and pulled the final boulder with a big smile on my face, glad to have sent another G. Phillips classic!

A rad sunset on the way home:

Autumn

What's going on?

Being a change of seasons, I thought it would be a good time to post a little update about recent goings-on and reflect on Summer.

COLES BAY

After my last post, I kicked into gear a little bit and did quite a lot of climbing. First up were a few local trips trying the sandstone test-pieces, then I headed to the Star Factory with Sam, with one clear goal in mind - Street Fighter (28). A Garry Phillips classic, it takes the streaked wall to the right of Antimatter (23). A couple of quick goes to work the moves and I had it pretty dialed - burly through the first underclings from the break, then power-endurance to the top, with a tricky redpoint crux on small feet off two pockets up high. On my first redpoint, I got to the very last move, and ended up pumping out slapping for the jug on the ledge. The very next day I marched back up there, got the last move sorted and sent it first redpoint. Now Street Fighter 2 (29) awaits...

On the same day Alex was around on the other side of the hill, at the South Park boulders on Mt Amos. The route he had in his sights was Stan (28) - one of only 4 trad routes in Tassie of that grade. Before we went up to the Factory, I gave him a belay on his first go of the day. Stan follows a thin, razor sharp crack, to a deadpoint to a jug up high as the very last move - this being the crux. Watching Alex cruise the crack placing gear, he went for the jug:

And missed it! Wishing him luck we headed off and he sent it next shot. Nice man!!

THE PARADISO

Soon after the Factory I went to the Paradiso quite a few times, with heaps of different people. I managed to tick: Thunderbirds are Go (24), Bagpipe Remix (25) and flash Simon's new one Hit and Run (25). I had a mini epic on Bagpipe, having 7 redpoints and finally sending after changing to different beta. Mark Poliniski was down as well, tearing the place apart. The swell was pretty big on quite a few days - Kim and Claire are on K2 (21) in this photo:

Sam and I also went aid climbing and tried Garry's awesome new one Ready, Steady, Go (26). This is the arete, but conditions often mean it is super greasy or the swell is too big to belay on. An absolute classic, I had a redpoint but couldn't hold the crux pinch/sloper. I'll be back!


HILLWOOD + OTHER

Two trips to Hillwood have gone down as well. Being like a kid in a candy shop, there are a lot of routes I haven't done - I climbed there when I first started but not for a long time. So far I have ticked: Small But Perfectly Formed (26), Art of War (26), Dr Pepper (23), Repentant Thief (23), Long Kiss Goodnight (22) and a whole host of easier things. On the mountain the other day I followed Garry up a new one on Northern Buttress, and it's really good fun - it comes recommended.

THE WALL

The other big news is that Alex's wall is now up and running. This is version 2.0 and it is rad! Double the size, with heaps more holds, a Big Red hangboard and more features, it goes off! Big thanks to Alex for doing the hard yards and getting it up and going!

Here is one of the cool warm-ups (not a Rocket Wall warm-up though!)

WHAT NEXT

Climbing a bit on rock recently has been good and I feel like I'm moving well. I need to be if I want to do some cool things I've got planned. A lot of training is on the cards, as it fits in well with Uni. Up at MS Fest last weekend, a particular line from Bliss N Eso's The Sea is Rising stuck with me -

"Nothing stands between you and the pursuit of your vision".

Just some food for thought. Have a good one!

News

I just thought I'd post a bit of news of late, of stuff I've been up to and also some of the things that have been going down in Tassie recently.

My News of Late

So after my last post I worked a lot. I didn't do much climbing but hey you get that! I have had some ups and downs this Summer - quite a few aborted/cancelled trips, mostly due to the shitty weather, but also some RAD times climbing. I managed to send a couple of routes mid December, Chop Sticks the Sequel (25) on Flange Buttress, and also WD RH Variant (25) at the Hoff which was good to get the muscles moving.

Then a wicked day at the Paradiso was had with Garry. I did Team Caffine (24, originally 21!) but more importantly Gazza bolted and climbed one of the sickest routes going around. Just around the corner from the Aquaphobia wall, it takes a 40 degree overhanging arete, and is short and sweet. He sent it on the first redpoint of the afternoon and I am fully psyched to go and try it! Gaz equipping it:

After that came some more work, then the usual Xmas celebrations. Another trip to the Paradiso saw me dispatch an old nemesis first go - Captain Napalm (25). Soon after a psyched Alex and I headed up to Coles Bay for a couple of days at the Factory. And what a few days they were! He had been trying The Grand Adjudicator (27), an awesome crack that leads to a hanging groove. Having been up there with Simon the week before he wasted no time getting on the lead -placing gear. Falling at the top of the first hard section, he soon settled his nerves and pulled through the tenuous crux, an awesome effort. Nice one man!

That afternoon we headed down to the Men's Gallery, a mind-blowing, hanging cliff at the end of the Factory that sports perfect water-washed granite. I had business to finish with the brilliant route Doug's Power Climb (26) [for want of a better name!]. It has a few big moves between massive jugs, then traverses left via a tricky boulder problem to the finish. Falling a couple of times using a hard sequence, I changed my beta and sent! It's the best climb I've ever done - get amongst it! A couple of happy dudes enjoying the good times climbing at the belay ledge..

After that rad trip I spent a lot of days projecting Storm Trooper (27) at Sphinx Rock. A brutal (for me) boulder problem through a roof, it took me quite a few sessions to get it sorted. And on Saturday I sent it! It's the hardest thing I've done so I'm stoked..thanks to all my belayers ha ha! And now the plan is to sport climb for a bit!

Tassie News

Quite a few things have been going down recently. First of all I might mention Crazy John's (John Fischer) growing ticklist! At the Ben he added quite a few routes with Gerry, the hardest being Leper Messiah (27) - a tips layback which opens up. Then at Coles Bay he first dispatched the trad testpiece Animal Instincts Direct (28) and then backed it up with an ascent of The Grand Adjudicator (27). Good form John!

Also at Coles Bay, Nick Hancock has put up a slew of new routes, mainly around the White Stack area, the most notable addition being an old project, which is now reputably classic and called The Dark Side (27). Nick and wife Heather have also been busy on the West Coast with lots more new routes at the Trial Harbour Crags.

At Bare Rock in Fingal, Natimuk resident Ingvar Lidman established the hardest route on the cliff - Fairies Wear Boots (27). Also from up North Mark Polinski from the USA has been crushing, making the FA of Fox Trot (28) in the Gorge, and repeating Freeloader (29) and The Gay Bar (28) both also in the Gorge. He also onsighted One Final Clue (27/8) at the Cluan Tiers, commenting that it was his "hardest onsight". Mark then made a trip South and stepped it up a level, sending the burly Space Invader (30) at Sphinx Rock.

Garry Phillips has also sent his and Jake Bresnehan's long-term project at the Tyndalls (full details in my other post).

And hot off the press (today!) is some rad news! Young Sam Peyr has been training like a demon, and it has paid off. Sam has sent the power test-piece Kick Start (29) at Nieka! Well done mate!

That's all I think, if I'm missing anything leave a comment or email me at will_bartlett@hotmail.com and I'll add it in. Cheers, get psyched!

Tyndalls: Round 1

Well I finally made it up to the Tyndalls. Garry and I had been planning to go up for a while, and after getting sick for a week, a few days of good weather together with time off made a trip look possible. We both had ideas of what we wanted to do up there: Gaz to finish off his and Jake's long-term project, and me to scope out lines for potential new routes and do some rock climbing!

So with about a week's food packed, we made a 5am start from Hobart on Tuesday morning. BOM had said 'Shower or two' but Metvuw was clear so we were hopeful for good weather. However as dawn broke near Ouse on the drive out it didn't look too good:

The weather only got worse as we got closer to the car-park. But we still held out hope nonetheless. Arriving at about 9am, we found the B.A.S.E jumpers from last year there. A year to the day in fact since that trip last year!

The walk was grim as per usual. Saw a whip snake just off the track, which was a bit of a surprise as it was raining! Having a bit of a rest halfway up..

When we reached the top of the hill an hour or so later, the mist monster was there as expected. Luckily, because we missed the proper turn off to the cave, I came prepared with my iPhone, so one quick look at Google Maps and we were at the cave and base camp was established by about 12pm. Garry's I-Tent fits perfectly in one of the bivvy spots in the cave!

That afternoon, however, there was no chance for climbing. The rain and mist had soaked the rock, but instead of drinking tea, we embarked on our first objective, to finish bolting Garry and Jake's route. Their now completed project is on the Main Face rap buttress, following a striking arete, starting off the Monster Terraces. Five pitches had already been bolted and redpointed. There was only now the question of the 30m section that was two pitches off the deck.

I was pretty nervous rapping in, having never been down the Main Face before. However it wasn't too bad and before long we were down at the crux pitch, and whilst Gaz inspected and equipped it, I made the 60m free-hanging rap down to the Monster Terraces. Unfortunately I didn't have a camera with me at this stage. Being down there was amazing, especially looking over at the awe-inspiring Main Face.

Soon Gaz-man was finished equipping the pitch, which from the top of the 27 pitch, traverses right out onto the arete, and then goes up a finger crack. Jugging out in the rain and mist meant we got back to camp pretty stuffed.

The next morning dawned with the mist clagging in again. Now that the pitch was fully equipped, the main priority was to get that pitch done. However the mist meant we carefully reconsidered our options. A weekend climbing at Coles Bay seemed pretty tempting at that stage...however after a few hot Powerades the psyche levels returned and we went for a walk - and the mist cleared! It was about 3.30pm, too late to rap into Gaz's project, but enough to do Raindancer (22), which is on a closer buttress and about 5-10mins from camp. We split it into three pitches (22,20, easy). Here's Gaz starting up the first pitch:

Garry following the 2nd (20) pitch:

Me on the last easy pitch - this route is rad slabby pebble pulling.

A beautiful moon rises over to the East..

The next day (Thursday) again dawned claggy, and we started packing to go, but soon it was game on as it cleared up and started heating up. The BASE jumpers were preparing to jump as well as the winds and conditions were right. Garry and I racked up and rapped in to his and Jake's route, and just as I reached the first re-belay bolt, the first two jumpers went for it, about 30m away. It's pretty heart-stopping to watch! Here's Merry right underneath their launch spot, with about 250m+ of air below his feet. He is hanging out on the aid line of the Healer, and it looks mega exposed!

Getting down to Garry at the top of the pitch that needed to be climbed, we set up a belay and then heard '20 Seconds!'. I whipped the camera out, and got footage of the most insane thing I've ever seen - one of the jumpers doing a front flip off the top of the Main Face! After that I lowered Garry in and he worked the pitch for a little while. Here he is working the end of the slippery finger crack:

We rapped to the Monster Terraces for a bit of a break:

After chilling the fuck out for a bit, we jugged back up. Garry's psych was infectious - I couldn't help smiling as he worked the sequence on the traverse. Lowering back to the belay, Garry got on with the business. A tricky cross through past a 2 finger pocket led to a couple of balancy, final moves to the belay about 6m away. Struggling on the last couple of moves Gaz fell on the very last move to a jug. Disheartened but sure he could do it, he was soon back at the belay and had another shot straight away - send! Here he is after the redpoint:

After that I belayed him up the finger crack/arete pitch which was pretty wet. All went well and that went down first redpoint. Clipping the belay Garry had done it - the project has been done and the route gone free! Meeting him at the belay, we were both psyched! We jugged and hauled our way to the top of the wall, by which time it was pretty late. We decided to walk out that night, and a few hours of slogging down the hill saw us back at the car. It was a full moon and it provided a wonderful spectacle for the drive home...

So that was our awesome trip to the Tyndalls. Gaz got his and Jake's route done which is sick. I'd like to say thanks to Gaz for a wicked trip where we both had heaps of fun!

I didn't really get around to as much as I wanted to do, but that was because of the weather cutting our time short. During the last few weeks I haven't been climbing heaps but been doing a bit of thinking about what I really what I want to focus on - it's not long 'till I head to Uni so time is an issue. I'm a bit over missions for the immediate future - I'd rather concentrate on sport climbing and "gettingshitdone" as Jakey B says. I'm still psyched for big missions like these, but I feel I want to just go rock climbing for a little while. So that was Round 1 for the Tyndalls this Summer, and I'll probably be back, just after climbing a few rocks.

Cheers,

Will

Summer

Well it's Summer time!

Haven't posted much recently because of exams which finished just over a week ago, but I managed to get out in my first week and send Neon God (25) with Alex. Had wanted to do it for ages and it did not disappoint - rad, thin climbing.

Slap Dancer

I had been projecting another Edwards' classic on the Pipes, Slap Dancer (26/27) for a couple of weeks and I did it in the second week of exams. I had tried it about a year ago and was keen to get it done. A couple of sessions with Sam (Peyr) saw us get the tricky mantle and the shouldery moves above sorted. Sam redpointed really quickly on our second trip up there, and I got through the mantle only once to fall just above. Headed back up with Matt (Spence), Alex and Sam and sent. Falling a couple of times at the mantle I wasn't sure, however on the last go of the day with not much skin I pulled through , and got to the rest halfway. A few moves moves saw me standing on top with Mr. Garden Gnome!

Tyndalls

It's that time of year for, as Jakey B says, 'Tyndall Mania'! I bought 74 of these for the coming season...

Keen to get out there and get amongst it, Matt and myself headed out on Wednesday after work. We met Garry, Dee and Alex on the drive there, who were on the way back, having just spent three days up there. They'd spent the time on Garry and Jake's soon-to-be-finished project, with Garry redpointing another couple of pitches and Alex redpointing one pitch.

Matt and I walked up the next morning, getting up to the cave in just over 2 hours at 7.30am. I dropped the hangers off and we went off exploring. As usual the sight of the Main Face was awe-inspiring, rising out of the depths of Lake Huntley.

The plan was to climb Big City Life (26) or Raindancer (22) but the weather cracked the shits which put a stop to that. So we just hung out for a bit and had a bit of a look around before walking out and heading back to Hobart. Pretty keen for this summer out there...

Handsome Crag

With the newly formed CCT (Climber's Club of Tasmania) keen to get out and rebolt somes of the old classics at Handsome Crag, near New Norfolk, I thought I'd head up with Simon and Alex to help finish rebolting and cleaning a few of the routes. Yesterday another few routes were rebolted, and we got on the ones that had been done the day before (thanks guys). First was Mentzal as Anything (24), which went down second go. A really really cool climb on funky holds and good rock, it is fun cranking.

Next was Melon Dreaming (28). An old Evan Peacock route from the 90's, some of the bolts that were pulled out of this were absolutely fucked! Sporting 4 new U-bolts we all had a play. Simon quickly figured out the bottom deadpoint, and sent second-shot. Alex and I both then did it. A rad route on good rock, the grade was probably a bit more like 27. Either way, it was a really good route!

Simon on the first crux deadpoint of Melon Dreaming (27/28):

'Till next time! Have a good one!

News 'n the Like

Prior to Arapiles I went to the Star Factory and managed to get a Phillips classic done, Turbohammer 25. I'd been on it once, over a year ago, but thankfully avoided an epic on the smear-tastic crux by pulling through second shot:



This is a bit of a news update as a few things have gone down since Whipper's roundup a little while back...

The Factory has seen the majority of the action. Doug McConnell who is in fine form, and was fresh from sending Punks in the Gym (32), made a flying visit to Tassie and finished off his old project, which is now Maxwell's Demon (28). Following an immaculate white water streak, this was route was destined to be popular, and has proved so with two quick ascents by Jake Bresnehan and Garry Phillips.

Simon Young shifted into top gear, sending Entree (29), after being spat off in the top groove after the crux dyno at least once, but came back and sent - an awesome effort, nice one! Read Simon's first-hand thoughts here. The man himself on the starting section of Entree (29):


Alex Lewis, who has built himself a bouldering wall and been training hard, has developed some mutant strength with which he has proceded to tear various things apart - the first were his fingers' tendons, the second was Decafe (27), and the most impressive was the third, the classic Power of the Percolator (28). Well done dude!

Mark Polinski, Tassie's newest arrival from the U.S of A, is crushing, also climbing Power of the Percolator (28), and commenting on his 8a profile that it was the

"Best route I've done on the Island so far along with Antimatter"

He also continued ripping Northern Tasmania apart, sending Insh Allah (28), the link-up Choose Light (27) at Hillwood, and also at Hillwood one of Kim Robinson's climbs, of which I don't have the name for, but is graded 29.

Last but not by any means least, Gerry Narkowicz has made the FA of Whiskey Jim Crack (25) at the relatively new and undeveloped crag, Whiskey Jim Hill in the Liffey Valley. It is a 6m horizontal hands-sized crack, of which the crux is turning the lip. The second ascent is up for grabs!

That's about it for now. Final exams are coming up fast, then I've got a few plans for the summer here in Tassie. Other than that, the Paradiso is quickly coming into season, and Alex and myself spent a rad day down there last weekend, both doing the cliff classic Offender of the Faith (24). Good times! Take it easy and have a good one!

Happy having an awesome day at Factory: