News

I just thought I'd post a bit of news of late, of stuff I've been up to and also some of the things that have been going down in Tassie recently.

My News of Late

So after my last post I worked a lot. I didn't do much climbing but hey you get that! I have had some ups and downs this Summer - quite a few aborted/cancelled trips, mostly due to the shitty weather, but also some RAD times climbing. I managed to send a couple of routes mid December, Chop Sticks the Sequel (25) on Flange Buttress, and also WD RH Variant (25) at the Hoff which was good to get the muscles moving.

Then a wicked day at the Paradiso was had with Garry. I did Team Caffine (24, originally 21!) but more importantly Gazza bolted and climbed one of the sickest routes going around. Just around the corner from the Aquaphobia wall, it takes a 40 degree overhanging arete, and is short and sweet. He sent it on the first redpoint of the afternoon and I am fully psyched to go and try it! Gaz equipping it:

After that came some more work, then the usual Xmas celebrations. Another trip to the Paradiso saw me dispatch an old nemesis first go - Captain Napalm (25). Soon after a psyched Alex and I headed up to Coles Bay for a couple of days at the Factory. And what a few days they were! He had been trying The Grand Adjudicator (27), an awesome crack that leads to a hanging groove. Having been up there with Simon the week before he wasted no time getting on the lead -placing gear. Falling at the top of the first hard section, he soon settled his nerves and pulled through the tenuous crux, an awesome effort. Nice one man!

That afternoon we headed down to the Men's Gallery, a mind-blowing, hanging cliff at the end of the Factory that sports perfect water-washed granite. I had business to finish with the brilliant route Doug's Power Climb (26) [for want of a better name!]. It has a few big moves between massive jugs, then traverses left via a tricky boulder problem to the finish. Falling a couple of times using a hard sequence, I changed my beta and sent! It's the best climb I've ever done - get amongst it! A couple of happy dudes enjoying the good times climbing at the belay ledge..

After that rad trip I spent a lot of days projecting Storm Trooper (27) at Sphinx Rock. A brutal (for me) boulder problem through a roof, it took me quite a few sessions to get it sorted. And on Saturday I sent it! It's the hardest thing I've done so I'm stoked..thanks to all my belayers ha ha! And now the plan is to sport climb for a bit!

Tassie News

Quite a few things have been going down recently. First of all I might mention Crazy John's (John Fischer) growing ticklist! At the Ben he added quite a few routes with Gerry, the hardest being Leper Messiah (27) - a tips layback which opens up. Then at Coles Bay he first dispatched the trad testpiece Animal Instincts Direct (28) and then backed it up with an ascent of The Grand Adjudicator (27). Good form John!

Also at Coles Bay, Nick Hancock has put up a slew of new routes, mainly around the White Stack area, the most notable addition being an old project, which is now reputably classic and called The Dark Side (27). Nick and wife Heather have also been busy on the West Coast with lots more new routes at the Trial Harbour Crags.

At Bare Rock in Fingal, Natimuk resident Ingvar Lidman established the hardest route on the cliff - Fairies Wear Boots (27). Also from up North Mark Polinski from the USA has been crushing, making the FA of Fox Trot (28) in the Gorge, and repeating Freeloader (29) and The Gay Bar (28) both also in the Gorge. He also onsighted One Final Clue (27/8) at the Cluan Tiers, commenting that it was his "hardest onsight". Mark then made a trip South and stepped it up a level, sending the burly Space Invader (30) at Sphinx Rock.

Garry Phillips has also sent his and Jake Bresnehan's long-term project at the Tyndalls (full details in my other post).

And hot off the press (today!) is some rad news! Young Sam Peyr has been training like a demon, and it has paid off. Sam has sent the power test-piece Kick Start (29) at Nieka! Well done mate!

That's all I think, if I'm missing anything leave a comment or email me at will_bartlett@hotmail.com and I'll add it in. Cheers, get psyched!