Send!

Just a quick little post!

For the last few months I've been projecting Astro Boy (30) at the Star Factory. On Tuesday I motored up the coast with Gazza and Grug and sent it! It takes a rad line, following red and white water streaks up some of the best rock in Tassie. A V8(ish) boulder to start is followed by an easier section with a rad deadpoint to arguably the sickest pinch in Tas, then a traverse left to a rest and the final tricky groove and mantle follow.

I think I spent about 9 days on it all up, many of which were figuring out beta for the bottom boulder. There are a couple of ways to do it, but I ended up having to do a dyno to the clipping sloper off a bad pinch and undercling. You are quite close to the ground and don't have the third bolt pre-clipped (as in the photos) so that adds a bit of spice! Thanks to everyone who belayed me and massive props to Alex (Lewis) for all the great photos!

Below: trying the moves off the deck

Above and below - This is the business; grab the bad pinch in left hand, then jump all the way to stick the sloper with your right hand.

Below: setting up for the deadpoint to the amazing pinch

Above: About to start the traverse left which leads to a rest then a tricky groove capped by a mantle.

The route has taught me a lot about redpointing. On my first day of redpointing I made it through the boulder, clipped and kept going. I felt strong and made it to the traverse left. I rested too long and blew the final move to the big rest. I was gutted but knew it would soon go. However 3 or 4 times I made it through the boulder to the clipping hold but wasn't confident enough to clip - if you blow it you will most likely deck. So this certainly added some spice.

The whole process of redpointing, from at first being unable to do any of the boulder moves, to linking the boulder to the bad pinch, then sticking the dyno off the rope, then linking from there to the traverse etc. has been a rad process. It has pushed me both mentally and physically; as Steve McClure writes:

That's the beauty, finding the limit, exploring it, and stepping right up to it. And then pushing it further.

So yeah, it's a great route! One of, if not the, best sport routes in Tassie for sure. Thanks to Alex for the photos again. Also cheers to Gazza for some much-needed motivation on the day. Psyched, have a good one!

Of late & The Mountains

Haven't updated this for a while, so what's been going on? The answer is heaps...where to start...

To begin where I left off, the Star Factory. Basically every weekend before the weather turned shite was spent up there trying Astro Boy (30). I think I've spent something like 6 or 7 days on it now. Progress has been good, but the conditions are hard to get right - because I'm weak it needs to be nice and cold to hold most of the crux holds!

The route for me comes down to sticking the sloper (hold with tick in above photo) at the end of the first boulder off the ground (V8-ish). Then it is a little pumpy with some amazing holds and moves to a traverse that leads into the final groove and mantle as for Back Yard Surgery (29).

Might head up this weekend and try it again but see what the weather does!

Fingal (Bare Rock)

This year, and particularly the recent months, have seen the development of a new, predominantly sport sector at Fingal called the Boneyard! This wall is pretty amazing, and a big thanks to those who have put the hardyards into develop this place - property owner Andrew Martin, Gerry Narkowicz, Ingvar Lidman and Garry Phillips. There are a few more details on Gerry's blog here regarding access. A topo and guide have not been made publically avaliable as it is nesting season for the falcons and eagles on the cliff - NO climbing is permitted until early December, please respect this.

Trying 2 Fast 2 Furious (28) - this is the crux, sticking a big move to a gnarly edge.

Top photo is Mark on Vapour Trail (28). Gazza enjoying life at Fingal!

Garry on Tiger Bean (28/29). Another wicked route that packs a punch, and has some rad pinches.

Garry on crux of Tiger Bean.

Garry and I headed up three times before the cliff closed about a month ago. It is sick! I tried the new mega-classic Vapour Trail (28) which is the world's pumpiest 26 to a lower-off, then blasting up the headwall makes it 28. Then I tried 2 Fast 2 Furious (28) another Gazza classic which is pretty bouldery. This new cliff is a great addition to the Tassie sport climbing scene and I look forward to climbing up there lots more when it re-opens in December!

Blue Mountains

Over the mid-semester break Sam (Peyr) and I road-tripped to the Bluies for 10 days of climbing. It was a great trip and was good to get out of Tassie for a bit and get some fresh psyche in the veins! Deciding what to take:

So we packed up my little Starlet and hit the open road. We stayed at the Blackheath caravan park and generally had a ball. We climbed mainly at the Glen and Shipely, but also at Boronia Point and Logan Brae. The first few days were spent getting adjusted to the rock because my word it is sharp. I'd forgotten how brutal it can be! But after a few days we got into the groove and all was well.

I did a few cruisy things like Bare Essentials (26), Paddington (25), Dr Stein (25) flash, but the highlight of the trip was sending Equaliser (28) on the very last day. It is awesome climbing to a boulder up high where I fell about 6 times. One of the best routes I've done, it follows the orange streak up from the top of the tree in this photo:

Cheers to Sam for all the belays! He had a wicked trip too, flashing the classic Rubber Lover (25) and doing a heap of other routes. I managed to send Equaliser at the 11th hour before we had to go, I got to the crux and suddenly found my self clipping the chains. Stoked! Getting psyched before the redpoint...

Melbourne's skyline from the boat.

And that's about it. Since I've been back I've been training a lot at Alex's wall (or the Bunker as it's now known!) inbetween writing essays at Uni. Everyone is pretty psyched which is sick. Yesterday up at Sphinx with Gaz man I managed to send Space Invader (30) for my first of the grade. I surprised myself by doing it after only 3 days of work. An awesome, bouldery route with a wicked sequence. The psyche on next year's Euro trip is intense!!!


Will hopefully post some more news soon. Have a good one!