Summer

Well it's Summer time!

Haven't posted much recently because of exams which finished just over a week ago, but I managed to get out in my first week and send Neon God (25) with Alex. Had wanted to do it for ages and it did not disappoint - rad, thin climbing.

Slap Dancer

I had been projecting another Edwards' classic on the Pipes, Slap Dancer (26/27) for a couple of weeks and I did it in the second week of exams. I had tried it about a year ago and was keen to get it done. A couple of sessions with Sam (Peyr) saw us get the tricky mantle and the shouldery moves above sorted. Sam redpointed really quickly on our second trip up there, and I got through the mantle only once to fall just above. Headed back up with Matt (Spence), Alex and Sam and sent. Falling a couple of times at the mantle I wasn't sure, however on the last go of the day with not much skin I pulled through , and got to the rest halfway. A few moves moves saw me standing on top with Mr. Garden Gnome!

Tyndalls

It's that time of year for, as Jakey B says, 'Tyndall Mania'! I bought 74 of these for the coming season...

Keen to get out there and get amongst it, Matt and myself headed out on Wednesday after work. We met Garry, Dee and Alex on the drive there, who were on the way back, having just spent three days up there. They'd spent the time on Garry and Jake's soon-to-be-finished project, with Garry redpointing another couple of pitches and Alex redpointing one pitch.

Matt and I walked up the next morning, getting up to the cave in just over 2 hours at 7.30am. I dropped the hangers off and we went off exploring. As usual the sight of the Main Face was awe-inspiring, rising out of the depths of Lake Huntley.

The plan was to climb Big City Life (26) or Raindancer (22) but the weather cracked the shits which put a stop to that. So we just hung out for a bit and had a bit of a look around before walking out and heading back to Hobart. Pretty keen for this summer out there...

Handsome Crag

With the newly formed CCT (Climber's Club of Tasmania) keen to get out and rebolt somes of the old classics at Handsome Crag, near New Norfolk, I thought I'd head up with Simon and Alex to help finish rebolting and cleaning a few of the routes. Yesterday another few routes were rebolted, and we got on the ones that had been done the day before (thanks guys). First was Mentzal as Anything (24), which went down second go. A really really cool climb on funky holds and good rock, it is fun cranking.

Next was Melon Dreaming (28). An old Evan Peacock route from the 90's, some of the bolts that were pulled out of this were absolutely fucked! Sporting 4 new U-bolts we all had a play. Simon quickly figured out the bottom deadpoint, and sent second-shot. Alex and I both then did it. A rad route on good rock, the grade was probably a bit more like 27. Either way, it was a really good route!

Simon on the first crux deadpoint of Melon Dreaming (27/28):

'Till next time! Have a good one!

News 'n the Like

Prior to Arapiles I went to the Star Factory and managed to get a Phillips classic done, Turbohammer 25. I'd been on it once, over a year ago, but thankfully avoided an epic on the smear-tastic crux by pulling through second shot:



This is a bit of a news update as a few things have gone down since Whipper's roundup a little while back...

The Factory has seen the majority of the action. Doug McConnell who is in fine form, and was fresh from sending Punks in the Gym (32), made a flying visit to Tassie and finished off his old project, which is now Maxwell's Demon (28). Following an immaculate white water streak, this was route was destined to be popular, and has proved so with two quick ascents by Jake Bresnehan and Garry Phillips.

Simon Young shifted into top gear, sending Entree (29), after being spat off in the top groove after the crux dyno at least once, but came back and sent - an awesome effort, nice one! Read Simon's first-hand thoughts here. The man himself on the starting section of Entree (29):


Alex Lewis, who has built himself a bouldering wall and been training hard, has developed some mutant strength with which he has proceded to tear various things apart - the first were his fingers' tendons, the second was Decafe (27), and the most impressive was the third, the classic Power of the Percolator (28). Well done dude!

Mark Polinski, Tassie's newest arrival from the U.S of A, is crushing, also climbing Power of the Percolator (28), and commenting on his 8a profile that it was the

"Best route I've done on the Island so far along with Antimatter"

He also continued ripping Northern Tasmania apart, sending Insh Allah (28), the link-up Choose Light (27) at Hillwood, and also at Hillwood one of Kim Robinson's climbs, of which I don't have the name for, but is graded 29.

Last but not by any means least, Gerry Narkowicz has made the FA of Whiskey Jim Crack (25) at the relatively new and undeveloped crag, Whiskey Jim Hill in the Liffey Valley. It is a 6m horizontal hands-sized crack, of which the crux is turning the lip. The second ascent is up for grabs!

That's about it for now. Final exams are coming up fast, then I've got a few plans for the summer here in Tassie. Other than that, the Paradiso is quickly coming into season, and Alex and myself spent a rad day down there last weekend, both doing the cliff classic Offender of the Faith (24). Good times! Take it easy and have a good one!

Happy having an awesome day at Factory:

Arapiles

About a month ago I spent a week at Arapiles. I headed over with Alex and Dee in what was forecast for the worst floods in 15 years - it wasn't that bad at all, we only had to drive through a puddle or two to get out there!

It was the start of a rad trip, with the weather being cloudless days at one extreme, and thunderstorms at the other! We spent a bit of the first morning cruising some of the easier routes..here's Dee cranking on Camelot 10:

Alex and I tried Trojan 25 that afternoon - after working the moves, he sent it next shot. I did it the next morning 2nd shot - it is an amazing climbing, but for me it was a fight all the way until the anchors. Many thanks to Dee for the photos.

That afternoon I climbed with Gerry Narkowicz for a while, doing Horn Piece 13 and then Tanin 19, which were both amazing routes. Gerry sent Trojan by the end of his trip just after we left which was rad! For the next few days we kicked back and did a few easier things, like eating and bouldering. I did a couple of the super easy classics, like Tiptoe Ridge 5 and Spiral Staircase 8, the latter was in a thunderstorm just as we got to the top, which was pretty special.

However Mind Arthritis 27 was one of the highlights of the trip, a route we both tried for the next couple of mornings. Forging its way up into space (hence the name), it's just around the corner from Trojan on the Pharos. An initial boulder leads to a juggy break, then it's game on up the headwall: mantles, gastons, crimps and deadpoints on some of the most amazing holds I've ever seen are the meat of the route. After trying it a couple of times, I decided to devote my time to other things, as realistically I wouldn't have done the route before we left. Alex thought the same - here's some photos of him on it (imagine the route kicks back 20 degrees, rad!):

Some more rain came, and we did a few different things: Arachnus, a really cool 120m grade 9.
We headed up Ali's on the Bluffs to have a look at Final Departure 27 which is a mind-blowing line. Alex ventured up the classic Missing Link 17, and we all had a grand time on the uber-classic Muldoon 13. On our last day, I did some more easy climbs on the Organ Pipes, and ol' Turbo (aka Alex) came agonisingly close to onsighting Orestes (23/24), pumping out on the final traverse, two moves from the finish. Here he's starting up it:

So Araps was an awesome experience, and I had heaps of fun just going rock climbing and hanging out. I'll definitely be back to finish business with Mind Arthritis!

Winter Wonderland

The awesome winter weather we've been having here in Tassie has meant I've been able to do a little bit of climbing in between exams! Which is a wicked change to last year's rain. So a few people have been getting out and sending...there's a really good roundup of Tassie news of late on Whipper: http://whipper.com.au/2010/08/pic-of-the-week-020810/

Cheers to Jake and Deano at Whipper for setting up a rad site which heaps of people are enjoying!

So anyway, my winter season started with a trip up to the cool cliffs at Nekia with Alex to do a route we bolted on the first tier, quite far right of Bladerunner Buttress. Freshly Baked 23 punches through a short roof to the crux slab above and isn't too bad.

Since then a few things have happened including:
- Ferret on a Leash 27 - sent it packing on my second redpoint, after working it for a few days last year. A rad route on sweet rock.
- Sleep, Eat, Bolt, Climb, Repeat 26. Alex's new route at Neika. A powerful crux leads to a pumpy finish
-Suck Ethics 25 at Fruehauf
-Gung Ho 26 at Fruehauf with a very psyched Gaz-man

Since I don't really have any interesting photos of late, here's one at Sphinx from last year. I'm on Ignition Sequence Start 24:



Photo: Alex Lewis

Next up is a trip to Araps in the September holidays with Alex and Dee. Until then a fair bit of training is on the cards as there are a few local things I would like to get done. Oh, and goodluck to everyone competing in the Nationals in Hobart tomorrow...Catchya later!

Talk is Cheap, Mt Brown

So the Tyndalls were off. After getting rained off the West Coast and a little bit of cragging in the Gorge at Launceston, Alex (Lewis) and I were back in Hobart with Thursday looking like good weather down on the Tasman Peninsula. Wanting a bit of an adventure, we decided on Talk is Cheap 210m 24 -established in 2008 by Simon Young and Garry Phillips, it tackles the steepest section of Mt Brown's intimidating, overhanging face. The grade of the pitches are 14, 24, 22, 16, 20, 24, 22, 19, 17, 8. In October 2009 Alex and I had climbed I've Heard It All Before 225m 23, so we had an idea of what to expect of the wall itself.

On the 3rd of June 2010 we cruised down the Peninsula after a 6am rendezvous. We'd pared our gear down for a light and, hopefully, fast ascent; one 60m lead rope, a 60m half rope for the abseils, about 20 draws and camalots from .4-2. Gunning out along the track to the top of Mt. Brown we got soaked from the mildew on all the shrubbery on the walk. A heart-starting 40 minutes' walking brought us to the top by 8.30am. Again I felt excited but nervous as we racked up carefully beside the rap station. It is a big, and to me, fucking scary wall - it overhangs all the way to the sea - after the first rap to a ledge, it drops away to the surging white water below. We had made the decision that this time we wouldn't fix ropes, hence pulling them after each abseil, committing to the wall.

The initial short rap leads to the ledge on which I've Heard It All Before ends on - this time we would be stepping off the LH end (facing the cliff). After threading the rope and triple checking his belay device, Alex began the first of 7 abseils. As soon as he had stepped off the ledge, he shouted up "I've Heard It All Before looks like a fucking slab compared to this thing!". Soon after I heard "Off rope", ; I too re-checked my ATC and prussik, and slid down the ropes to join him, trying to not think too much about the air beneath my feet!

The wall really kicks steeply after these two pitches, and now for each abseil,Alex had to clip into bolts to stay attached to the wall. Unclipping these coming down second meant I had to do a gut-wrenching swing out from the face - fun times!

Another four more abseils bought us to what the description called the "big chill-out ledge", where we regrouped and stashed the second rope and some water. We had thought we would need it for the 35m rappel but a single 60m had reached the belay fine. It was amazing hanging out on a decent sized ledge, looking up and around into the vast amphitheatre of rock. The water surged below us into a sea-cave right at the base of the wall, and every ten minutes or so there was a sonic boom as a swell completely filled the cave and forced all the air out - when this happened the cliff would seemingly shudder - all contributing to the atmosphere.

Below: Alex rapping the 4th pitch (16)


At ledge we had a discussion about continuing all the way to the bottom of the route - it was a intimidating place, with rock towering overhead reminding us we had to climb out, which combined with the sea allowed doubts to creep in about our ability to do the bottom 24 pitch. From Simon Carter's photos, and other people's beta, it sounded pretty hard. Another problem we encountered was that much of the rock was wet, some of it just slick and some saturated.
However we resolved to continue to the bottom of the 3rd pitch (22) to see what lay in store. Down Alex went, setting up a belay. When I came to abseil, again I had to unclip the rope from the bolts as I went. When it came to the bolt underneath the overhang, I took a deep breath and "1,2,3 GO!" - I was flying out over the sea - "This is fucked man!!!". But I loved it really! Joining Alex at the belay it was time to start climbing. Even though we hadn't gone all the way down, it was still amazing to be able to start climbing. Alex was psyched to lead, so he jumped on the sharp end and led off on a traverse left and up to the big overhang. He pulled through and up to the belay. I followed, finding the section under the roof pretty tricky and wet. Passing the belay in a semi-hanging alcove, I led up the 4th (16) pitch to the ledge (I found this a bit harder than 16, maybe hard 17).


We had a quick break and then Alex set off up the 4th (20) pitch. A few cams off the belay led to a thin and pumpy sequence of moves of which the final move was a throw to the next belay ledge; it was a rad onsight by Alex. I just scraped up it, then started up the second 24 pitch. Wet and dirty rock slowed progress and saw me struggling to clip a bolt off a sloping wet jug. I wimped out and yelled "Take!" - honestly, I was pretty scared. I dogged through the steep section of this pitch, but the angle soon eased to reveal the Pocket of Love - complete with a yellow toy Tellytuby!

Bringing Alex up, I handed over some cams and he traversed right to the start of the hand-crack on the 7th (22) pitch. Following this up the jams ran out and it transformed into a thin layback. "Watch me!" he called down but pulled through with another sweet onsight to the belay. I tried to follow quickly, however found the layback really tricky and fell, so yarded on a bolt and scurried up to the belay. The next two pitches (19 & 17) went pretty quickly with me resting on the 19 due to a bit of wet rock (and more softness).

At 2.30pm we topped out, 5.5 hours after beginning to rap in. Although we didn't do the whole route or do it all free (or I didn't free it to be fair), it was another wicked adventure on the Main Face of Mt. Brown that we both really enjoyed. It is an amazing place to climb: the route itself being awesome, which combined with the mind-blowing exposure at times and the sea booming many metres below, creates something special. Thanks is definitely due to Gazza and Simon for establishing the route, it is brilliant guys. We will be back to do the whole thing free when it dries out a bit!


Alex and I hanging out at base of the 7th (22) pitch having a rad time!






I've Heard It All Before video October 2009:

Welcome!

Hey there,

I'm Will, I live in Tassie, Australia, and love climbing rocks. I've started this blog to share my adventures and thoughts about climbing and living. Have a good one, cheers!




Garry Phillips on Power of the Percolater 28 and myself on Antimatter 23, the Star Factory, Tasmania. Photo: Sam Peyr.