Another Phillips Classic

A little news and some photos.

Slap Dancer (27) on Albert's Tomb, Mt. Wellington. Did this rad route a few months back - it's a good one! Thanks to Jed (Parkes) for the shots.

STAR FACTORY

Last weekend Alex and myself cruised up the coast in his brand-spanking new Subaru Outback which was pretty sick. Saturday saw us up at the Factory with Simon. I put the draws on Decafe (27) and managed to get it next shot which was rad. Alex and Simon both had burns on Street Fighter (28).

On Sunday we walked back up late, because it was absolutely baking, 25 degrees plus! There were quite a few people up there, which was a change. Power of the Percolator (28) was the goal for the day. Having a burn I fell at the crux. I went to the top putting draws and got it figured. Letting the rock cool down I had another shot but bungled it again. The second attempt:

Alex had another go on Street Fighter and got really high, to the second crux a few moves from the top. Here he is down low:

Heading home I knew I would be back to finish business with Percolator soon. Yesterday I went up for the day with Merry, Ed and Ben. Putting the draws on I refreshed my memory and soon was scoffing Red Bull for a redpoint. Just staying on at the crux I made it to the rest, then got some back and pulled the final boulder with a big smile on my face, glad to have sent another G. Phillips classic!

A rad sunset on the way home:

Autumn

What's going on?

Being a change of seasons, I thought it would be a good time to post a little update about recent goings-on and reflect on Summer.

COLES BAY

After my last post, I kicked into gear a little bit and did quite a lot of climbing. First up were a few local trips trying the sandstone test-pieces, then I headed to the Star Factory with Sam, with one clear goal in mind - Street Fighter (28). A Garry Phillips classic, it takes the streaked wall to the right of Antimatter (23). A couple of quick goes to work the moves and I had it pretty dialed - burly through the first underclings from the break, then power-endurance to the top, with a tricky redpoint crux on small feet off two pockets up high. On my first redpoint, I got to the very last move, and ended up pumping out slapping for the jug on the ledge. The very next day I marched back up there, got the last move sorted and sent it first redpoint. Now Street Fighter 2 (29) awaits...

On the same day Alex was around on the other side of the hill, at the South Park boulders on Mt Amos. The route he had in his sights was Stan (28) - one of only 4 trad routes in Tassie of that grade. Before we went up to the Factory, I gave him a belay on his first go of the day. Stan follows a thin, razor sharp crack, to a deadpoint to a jug up high as the very last move - this being the crux. Watching Alex cruise the crack placing gear, he went for the jug:

And missed it! Wishing him luck we headed off and he sent it next shot. Nice man!!

THE PARADISO

Soon after the Factory I went to the Paradiso quite a few times, with heaps of different people. I managed to tick: Thunderbirds are Go (24), Bagpipe Remix (25) and flash Simon's new one Hit and Run (25). I had a mini epic on Bagpipe, having 7 redpoints and finally sending after changing to different beta. Mark Poliniski was down as well, tearing the place apart. The swell was pretty big on quite a few days - Kim and Claire are on K2 (21) in this photo:

Sam and I also went aid climbing and tried Garry's awesome new one Ready, Steady, Go (26). This is the arete, but conditions often mean it is super greasy or the swell is too big to belay on. An absolute classic, I had a redpoint but couldn't hold the crux pinch/sloper. I'll be back!


HILLWOOD + OTHER

Two trips to Hillwood have gone down as well. Being like a kid in a candy shop, there are a lot of routes I haven't done - I climbed there when I first started but not for a long time. So far I have ticked: Small But Perfectly Formed (26), Art of War (26), Dr Pepper (23), Repentant Thief (23), Long Kiss Goodnight (22) and a whole host of easier things. On the mountain the other day I followed Garry up a new one on Northern Buttress, and it's really good fun - it comes recommended.

THE WALL

The other big news is that Alex's wall is now up and running. This is version 2.0 and it is rad! Double the size, with heaps more holds, a Big Red hangboard and more features, it goes off! Big thanks to Alex for doing the hard yards and getting it up and going!

Here is one of the cool warm-ups (not a Rocket Wall warm-up though!)

WHAT NEXT

Climbing a bit on rock recently has been good and I feel like I'm moving well. I need to be if I want to do some cool things I've got planned. A lot of training is on the cards, as it fits in well with Uni. Up at MS Fest last weekend, a particular line from Bliss N Eso's The Sea is Rising stuck with me -

"Nothing stands between you and the pursuit of your vision".

Just some food for thought. Have a good one!