Sunday, December 5, 2010

Summer

Well it's Summer time!

Haven't posted much recently because of exams which finished just over a week ago, but I managed to get out in my first week and send Neon God (25) with Alex. Had wanted to do it for ages and it did not disappoint - rad, thin climbing.

Slap Dancer

I had been projecting another Edwards' classic on the Pipes, Slap Dancer (26/27) for a couple of weeks and I did it in the second week of exams. I had tried it about a year ago and was keen to get it done. A couple of sessions with Sam (Peyr) saw us get the tricky mantle and the shouldery moves above sorted. Sam redpointed really quickly on our second trip up there, and I got through the mantle only once to fall just above. Headed back up with Matt (Spence), Alex and Sam and sent. Falling a couple of times at the mantle I wasn't sure, however on the last go of the day with not much skin I pulled through , and got to the rest halfway. A few moves moves saw me standing on top with Mr. Garden Gnome!

Tyndalls

It's that time of year for, as Jakey B says, 'Tyndall Mania'! I bought 74 of these for the coming season...


Keen to get out there and get amongst it, Matt and myself headed out on Wednesday after work. We met Garry, Dee and Alex on the drive there, who were on the way back, having just spent three days up there. They'd spent the time on Garry and Jake's soon-to-be-finished project, with Garry redpointing another couple of pitches and Alex redpointing one pitch.


Matt and I walked up the next morning, getting up to the cave in just over 2 hours at 7.30am. I dropped the hangers off and we went off exploring. As usual the sight of the Main Face was awe-inspiring, rising out of the depths of Lake Huntley.



The plan was to climb Big City Life (26) or Raindancer (22) but the weather cracked the shits which put a stop to that. So we just hung out for a bit and had a bit of a look around before walking out and heading back to Hobart. Pretty keen for this summer out there...

Handsome Crag


With the newly formed CCT (Climber's Club of Tasmania) keen to get out and rebolt somes of the old classics at Handsome Crag, near New Norfolk, I thought I'd head up with Simon and Alex to help finish rebolting and cleaning a few of the routes. Yesterday another few routes were rebolted, and we got on the ones that had been done the day before (thanks guys). First was Mentzal as Anything (24), which went down second go. A really really cool climb on funky holds and good rock, it is fun cranking.


Next was Melon Dreaming (28). An old Evan Peacock route from the 90's, some of the bolts that were pulled out of this were absolutely fucked! Sporting 4 new U-bolts we all had a play. Simon quickly figured out the bottom deadpoint, and sent second-shot. Alex and I both then did it. A rad route on good rock, the grade was probably a bit more like 27. Either way, it was a really good route!

Simon on the first crux deadpoint of Melon Dreaming (27/28):


'Till next time! Have a good one!