Send!

Just a quick little post!

For the last few months I've been projecting Astro Boy (30) at the Star Factory. On Tuesday I motored up the coast with Gazza and Grug and sent it! It takes a rad line, following red and white water streaks up some of the best rock in Tassie. A V8(ish) boulder to start is followed by an easier section with a rad deadpoint to arguably the sickest pinch in Tas, then a traverse left to a rest and the final tricky groove and mantle follow.

I think I spent about 9 days on it all up, many of which were figuring out beta for the bottom boulder. There are a couple of ways to do it, but I ended up having to do a dyno to the clipping sloper off a bad pinch and undercling. You are quite close to the ground and don't have the third bolt pre-clipped (as in the photos) so that adds a bit of spice! Thanks to everyone who belayed me and massive props to Alex (Lewis) for all the great photos!

Below: trying the moves off the deck

Above and below - This is the business; grab the bad pinch in left hand, then jump all the way to stick the sloper with your right hand.

Below: setting up for the deadpoint to the amazing pinch

Above: About to start the traverse left which leads to a rest then a tricky groove capped by a mantle.

The route has taught me a lot about redpointing. On my first day of redpointing I made it through the boulder, clipped and kept going. I felt strong and made it to the traverse left. I rested too long and blew the final move to the big rest. I was gutted but knew it would soon go. However 3 or 4 times I made it through the boulder to the clipping hold but wasn't confident enough to clip - if you blow it you will most likely deck. So this certainly added some spice.

The whole process of redpointing, from at first being unable to do any of the boulder moves, to linking the boulder to the bad pinch, then sticking the dyno off the rope, then linking from there to the traverse etc. has been a rad process. It has pushed me both mentally and physically; as Steve McClure writes:

That's the beauty, finding the limit, exploring it, and stepping right up to it. And then pushing it further.

So yeah, it's a great route! One of, if not the, best sport routes in Tassie for sure. Thanks to Alex for the photos again. Also cheers to Gazza for some much-needed motivation on the day. Psyched, have a good one!