Wednesday, January 25, 2012
Moved Blog To WordPress
Just so you know I've moved my blog to http://follyinthevertical.wordpress.com because it is easier to manage and allows a greater degree of control. Keep up with all the latest there!
Cheers
Will
Saturday, November 19, 2011
Onwards


So onwards to Summer, more climbing, a fair bit of work, some Tyndall Mania, and most excitingly, the big Europe roadtrip in 2012! Get psyched
Tuesday, September 27, 2011
Send!
For the last few months I've been projecting Astro Boy (30) at the Star Factory. On Tuesday I motored up the coast with Gazza and Grug and sent it! It takes a rad line, following red and white water streaks up some of the best rock in Tassie. A V8(ish) boulder to start is followed by an easier section with a rad deadpoint to arguably the sickest pinch in Tas, then a traverse left to a rest and the final tricky groove and mantle follow.
I think I spent about 9 days on it all up, many of which were figuring out beta for the bottom boulder. There are a couple of ways to do it, but I ended up having to do a dyno to the clipping sloper off a bad pinch and undercling. You are quite close to the ground and don't have the third bolt pre-clipped (as in the photos) so that adds a bit of spice! Thanks to everyone who belayed me and massive props to Alex (Lewis) for all the great photos!
The route has taught me a lot about redpointing. On my first day of redpointing I made it through the boulder, clipped and kept going. I felt strong and made it to the traverse left. I rested too long and blew the final move to the big rest. I was gutted but knew it would soon go. However 3 or 4 times I made it through the boulder to the clipping hold but wasn't confident enough to clip - if you blow it you will most likely deck. So this certainly added some spice.
That's the beauty, finding the limit, exploring it, and stepping right up to it. And then pushing it further.
Friday, September 23, 2011
Of late & The Mountains
To begin where I left off, the Star Factory. Basically every weekend before the weather turned shite was spent up there trying Astro Boy (30). I think I've spent something like 6 or 7 days on it now. Progress has been good, but the conditions are hard to get right - because I'm weak it needs to be nice and cold to hold most of the crux holds!
Fingal (Bare Rock)
This year, and particularly the recent months, have seen the development of a new, predominantly sport sector at Fingal called the Boneyard! This wall is pretty amazing, and a big thanks to those who have put the hardyards into develop this place - property owner Andrew Martin, Gerry Narkowicz, Ingvar Lidman and Garry Phillips. There are a few more details on Gerry's blog here regarding access. A topo and guide have not been made publically avaliable as it is nesting season for the falcons and eagles on the cliff - NO climbing is permitted until early December, please respect this.





Garry and I headed up three times before the cliff closed about a month ago. It is sick! I tried the new mega-classic Vapour Trail (28) which is the world's pumpiest 26 to a lower-off, then blasting up the headwall makes it 28. Then I tried 2 Fast 2 Furious (28) another Gazza classic which is pretty bouldery. This new cliff is a great addition to the Tassie sport climbing scene and I look forward to climbing up there lots more when it re-opens in December!
Over the mid-semester break Sam (Peyr) and I road-tripped to the Bluies for 10 days of climbing. It was a great trip and was good to get out of Tassie for a bit and get some fresh psyche in the veins! Deciding what to take:




Melbourne's skyline from the boat.
And that's about it. Since I've been back I've been training a lot at Alex's wall (or the Bunker as it's now known!) inbetween writing essays at Uni. Everyone is pretty psyched which is sick. Yesterday up at Sphinx with Gaz man I managed to send Space Invader (30) for my first of the grade. I surprised myself by doing it after only 3 days of work. An awesome, bouldery route with a wicked sequence. The psyche on next year's Euro trip is intense!!!
Will hopefully post some more news soon. Have a good one!
Wednesday, June 29, 2011
The End of an Epic, and More Factory Goodness
The Factory
Basically I've just been heading to the Factory a lot, which has been sweet. Here are some photos of Grant and myself on the usual day's warm up, Antimatter (23). Thanks to Mark Polinski for the photos:


The crux move on Astro Boy, a big throw to a sloper:
In other Factory news Mark just repeated Come Get Me (30) on his 4th try for its third ascent. Grant repeated the classic Maxwell's Demon (28). Alex pulled out all the stops and sent Back Yard Surgery (29), his first of the grade! Crazy John also climbed Back Yard Surgery. Jedi (Jed Parkes) also put in a fantastic effort and sent Decafe (27), his first of the grade. Good stuff everyone!


And that's about it! Oh one last thing, heard on the grapevine that Ingvar Lidman of Natimuk just today established a new 29 at Bare Rock in Fingal, and that more hard sends up there may be on the way. As Jakey B says, rock on!
Monday, May 16, 2011
'Tis the Season
About to pull on to Back Yard Surgery (29):
Before the Gramps trip I fell off the second last move of Back Yard Surgery (29). So I was pretty keen to get back to it and get it done! It is a V6ish boulder to power-endurance redpoint crux at about 26/7. Motoring up with a psyched crew, I warmed up and knew it was game on. Putting the draws on I got the tricky groove + mantle at the top dialed, and came down. My first redpoint shot I got super flash-pumped and bungled it just before the big rest.
After that I belayed Mark on his successful redpoint on Astro Boy (30) and knew it was time to get on the send-train. Falling off the boulder once more I took a moment on the ledge to gather my thoughts and then sent. Foot high, hand jam, clip, punch, lock, crimps, deep lock, underclings, cross then throw, rest then last groove. Clipping the last bolt I beach-whaled the top and knew it was done. It is one of my favourite routes because the climbing is on immaculate rock, and is just sick!
A few shots on the route, many thanks to Alex for the photos:
Grant came really close that day, and the weekend just gone we all headed up again. He and Alex traded shots, with Grant managing to send it late in the day. A triple shot expresso was then had by Alex and he came ever so close to sending! I spent the day on Simply the Best (28) which I am going to try again tomorrow with Grant, another amazing route on rad rock.
Alex on the start of Back Yard:
Grant crushing it:
Many more weekends will be spent up there in the coming months and the plan is for some of the harder stuff. A lot of hours have been spent training recently in preparation for the season that has now started, hopefully I can transfer this to the rock. An absolutely stunning sunset on the walk out:

Thursday, May 5, 2011
Grampains Trip Report
The last Wednesday of term was important for two reasons. Firstly it meant that Alex and I were going to the Grampians the next day. Secondly, it meant that the UTAS Students Law Society was having a barrel (read:piss up). So when my tutorial finished we headed down with great enthusiasm and got amongst the $2 drinks. Suffice to say I enjoyed myself rather too much, and ended up getting home at about 3am. Not ideal when you have to get up at 6am.
Somehow managing to get to the airport, Alex and I flew to Melbourne, then took a train to Ararat. We couldn't take the boat 'cos we left it too late to book, and we couldn't hire a car 'cos neither of us is 21. Flying didn't help my raging hangover. Arriving in Ararat, a pretty bogan town somewhere in Western Vic, we set about gathering supplies for the next six days. Just chilling outside the bottle shop with all our stuff, and a stolen trolley:



Alex then went up Serpentine (29) with Grant, and I ran around like a headless chicken trying lots of things, then decided to get stuck into Tyranny (29), which Andrea was also trying. Also on Spurt Wall, it is short and sweet: two boulder problems followed by a pumpy finish. Lee was trying his project (that would become Sneaky Snake 33) that blasts up the middle of Taipan, and Doug was trying the Groove Train (33/34).

On Saturday we both woke up and felt like we'd be hit by a train! I decided to have a rest day, while Alex was still keen for Serpentine. Looking up:


Being true sport climbers we then went to a party in Nati that night at Toby's house. The next morning was a bit of a struggle. I had another four or so cracks on Tyranny, and Andrea sent it, which was awesome! Alex sent Mr J as well.


Cheers to Alex for an awesome trip, as well as everyone who was up there (especially Grant, thanks man).