The Factory
Basically I've just been heading to the Factory a lot, which has been sweet. Here are some photos of Grant and myself on the usual day's warm up, Antimatter (23). Thanks to Mark Polinski for the photos:
I managed to send Maxwell's Demon (28) on my third shot a few weeks back, which was good! Best 28 I've done at the factory for sure, get amongst it. Other than that I've put a couple of days' effort into Astro Boy (30), one of the raddest routes going around. It takes an amazing line on perfect rock, starting with a hard boulder then classic climbing. I'm pretty psyched on it, but we'll see how it goes, for me it's a really hard route. Thanks to Alex for the photos.The crux move on Astro Boy, a big throw to a sloper:
Up higher another rad move; setting up for the big deadpoint to an immaculate pinch:
In other Factory news Mark just repeated Come Get Me (30) on his 4th try for its third ascent. Grant repeated the classic Maxwell's Demon (28). Alex pulled out all the stops and sent Back Yard Surgery (29), his first of the grade! Crazy John also climbed Back Yard Surgery. Jedi (Jed Parkes) also put in a fantastic effort and sent Decafe (27), his first of the grade. Good stuff everyone!
Grant on Maxwell's Demon (28) - Photo Mark Polinski End of an Epic
I finally sent my nemesis route, Calm Before the Storm (28). I have been trying off and on for maybe 2 years, but only seriously tried it this year. After about 40 redpoints (about half of those on Storm Trooper 27, the first half) I finally got it done! The actual send was literally a screaming epic haha! Another one to cross off the ticklist. I do have a video of me doing most of the route taken by Gazza but it won't let me upload it so I'll have to work that out. Here is a still from the vid:
And that's about it! Oh one last thing, heard on the grapevine that Ingvar Lidman of Natimuk just today established a new 29 at Bare Rock in Fingal, and that more hard sends up there may be on the way. As Jakey B says, rock on!
